Facing The Limit

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The climbing couple Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane abandon their usual winter training spot to go in search of places more conducive to free climbing in Algeria in the Sahara desert, more precisely in the Hoggar massif, which saw pass the cream of world climbing Lionel Terray, Roger Frison-Roche, Lucien Bérardini, Michel Vaucher, Pierre Mazeaud, Guido Monzino, Patrick Edlinger, Patrick Berhault and many others. Their objective, to climb the east face of Garet El Djenoun, 500 m high, failed because the wall was too smooth and the cracks unstable. The journey continues in the Hoggar massif towards other peaks, where they find the climbing conditions they were hoping for. An overhang in the face of Tizouyag Nord will prove to be a major challenge for Heinz Mariacher.

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On 9 August 2018, Slovenian climbers Luka Stražar and Aleš Česen, along with British climber Tom Livingstone, reached the summit of Latok I (7,145 m) in the Karakorum Mountains of Pakistan. They climbed three-quarters of the way up the coveted "impossible ridge" before deviating from it. The North Ridge of Latok has been/is recognized as one of the last great unclimbed lines in high-altitude mountaineering. This is the second successful ascent of the summit and the first ascent from the north face.

The French Alpine Club's film about the French expedition to conquer Makalu (8481m) via the west pillar in Nepal, which began on February 24, 1971. Composed of 11 mountaineers, Robert Paragot (expedition leader), Georges Payot, Lucien Berardini, Yannick Seigneur, Claude Jager, Jean-Paul Paris, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, Bernard Mellet, Robert Jacob and Jacques Marchal (surgeon), it took twenty-five days of walking on the Himalayan trails with 460 porters and 18 Sherpas to transport 14 tons of equipment to reach the base camp. Finally, it was Mellet and Seigneur who managed to reach the summit on May 23, 1971: 8481 m, temperature - 30°, oxygen 30%, no wind.

Human multitool: French Mathis Dumas belongs to a new generation of alpine all-rounders. Out braving the elements on skis, on rope or with ice axes, his work has just begun: Being a professional outdoor photographer, the athlete and mountain guide has chosen a profession which demands high athletic, social and creative skills all at the same time. Usually his photo motif takes center stage – until now. We follow Mathis to his dream shot – the first attempt of an exposed highline in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif.

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If you like Swiss chocolate and enjoy climbing, you will love this film. Showcasing footage from some of Switzerland most prominent bouldering areas, this film captures the beauty and mystique that has made Switzerland a top bouldering destination. Featuring the area’s classic problems and many first ascents and repeats of the area’s hardest problems. Climbers Paul Robinson, Chris Webb Parsons, and others fill this movie with non-stop action packed footage. Better than Chocolate comes with bonus footage including additional boulder problems, outtakes, and more!

On May 23, 1971, a French expedition led by Robert Paragot successfully climbed Makalu via its west pillar. Makalu is one of the five highest peaks in the world, located in the Himalayas on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. Jean-Pierre Janssen and Lucien Bérardini filmed this expedition, where Robert Paragot spoke about the expedition conditions, life at altitude, and his state of mind as expedition leader. On the return to base camp, Jean-Pierre Janssen interviewed Lucien Berardini, Georges Payot, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, and Jean-Paul Paris, all of whom played a key role in bringing Bernard Mellet and Yannick Seigneur to the summit. Expedition members: Robert Paragot (expedition leader), Georges Payot, Yannick Seigneur, Claude Jager, Jean-Claude Mosca, François Guillot, Bernard Mellet, Lucien Bérardini, Jean-Paul Paris, Robert Jacob, Jacques Marchal (surgeon).

The film of the first ascent of Mont Foraker (5,304 m) in the Denali chain in Alaska, by the southeast ridge of independence in 1976, which remains years after an unequaled sporting and human adventure. The 7 members of the expedition, Henri Agresti, Jean-Paul Bouquier, Jean-Marie Galmiche, Werner Landry, Gérard Creton, Isabelle Agresti, Hervé Thivierge, all came to the top after thirty days of climbing in conditions still limits. Breathtaking images where the grandiose views of the icy desert and the scenes of daily life alternate on a most rough mountains on the planet. The film received the Gentiane d'Or Festival prizes from Thirty 1977, Public Prize Festival des Diablerets 1977, SFP Festival de la Plagne in 1977.

Film about the first French expedition in 1968 in the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan. After a long and laborious approach by R4 car in the footsteps of Marco Polo, through Turkey, Iran and Afghanistan, to the high valley of Wakhan, in the heart of the Hindu Kush, Isabelle and Henri Agresti (high mountain guide), accompanied by Yves Dominoni, Renée and Lucien Agresti, more than precious help, explore a little-known valley for 40 days, and climb some virgin peaks of 5000 and 6000 meters. The return to Europe will be by the tracks and roads of the south: Pakistan, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Syria... A trip of approach to go later to explore the mountains of China, then still closed, and the Tibetan side of Everest... The project of a lifetime.

Masters of stone I is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in City Of Rocks and American Fork Canyon. It was directed by Eric Perlman in 1991 and produced by Perlman Productions. It is a part of the series Masters of stone (1/6). It features Ron Kauk, Tony Yaniro, Dan Osman, John Bachar, Todd Skinner, Boone Speed and others.

DAN OSMAN Speed Free-Solo / Major Air RON KAUK5.14b Yosemite and Tuolumne CA CHRIS SHARMA5.13d Mickey's Beach and Pinnacles CA ALEX HUBER 5.14d Siurana SPAIN JOHN BACHAR 5.12 Solo Red Rocks NV KATIE BROWN5.13+ Red River Gorge KY JB TRIBOUT AND BOBBI BENSMAN: Rifle CO

This film - without commentary and simply accompanied by local music - relates the 1969 ascent of the north face of Kohe Shakhawr, a Himalayan peak located on the border with Afghanistan, by mountaineers Benoît Mathieu, Jacques Soubis, René Thomas, Jean-Paul Paris, Isabelle Agresti, Henri Agresti, Roger Dietz, Jean-Pierre Frésafond, Paul Gendre, Claude Jager and Félix Magnin. As is often the case in Henri Agresti's films, there is an encounter with other peoples, other cultures, documented at length in the introduction. Then, after the interminable approach, the ascent begins: distribution of camps, successive assaults on the mountain, walking on steep scree and snowy slopes, climbing on icy walls... The arrival at the summit, without the aid of oxygen devices, seems to take place in slow motion: exhaustion mixes with the joy of the victorious mountaineers who will celebrate their success on their return to base camp on August 24, 1969.

A film about the 1979 expedition to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, led by Lyon native Jean-Pierre Frésafond. After a city tour, they set off by bus and then on foot with Sherpas to base camp. Having set out to attempt the Rupal Pillar, the expedition was unable to reach its objective in time (torrential rain, blocked roads, scree, etc.) and lost precious time before choosing to attempt the Mazeno Ridge by default. The team theoretically had the means to do so, since it brought together no fewer than 21 strong climbers, with a large core from Lyon—a concentration of talent rarely seen. But the resulting group dynamic worked contrary to expectations, and they had to settle for the most modest of consolation prizes: the ascent of the First Peak (6,880 meters). Frésafond recounted this in a book-testimony "The Revenge of the Himalayas - The Human Adventure at Nanga-Parbat".

Thierry Damilano and his team of Tuareg guides will take you on a trek in the Algerian Sahara, to discover the local culture with a mandatory visit to the hermitage of Father de Foucauld facing Assekrem, then climbing the legendary peaks of the Hoggar massif.

The history of the Chamonix Guides Company is inseparable from that of mountaineering and the valley where it was born. For 200 years, guides have risen to multiple challenges, making their organization a legend. Today, they are the actors of a changing mountain: overcrowding, global warming, loss of freedom—the causes are multiple. This film is at a crossroads. Between tradition and modernity, it traces the history of the Chamonix Guides Company, evoking the incredible challenges it has met with dignity and those it now faces.

It's one of the hardest routes on a north face that's not lacking in them: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed, ice and rock, sometimes dubious, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repeats that have made it a legend: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003. For the past ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been setting off on this route in the fall, or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped up with Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film about what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.